Demanding companions
Do you feel close to nature and want a pet or does your child want an animal friend? That's great - but before buying a guinea pig , everyone should be aware that they are taking responsibility for the welfare and lives of animals. A task that a child cannot manage alone. Guinea pigs are often considered ideal animals for city apartments. Many people think they take up relatively little space, are very quiet and don't disturb the neighbors. As so-called small animals, they can also be kept without permission from landlords. Thanks to their adorable appearance and lively nature, animals arouse positive feelings in children and adults alike.
However, many prospective pet owners overlook the fact that guinea pigs are also sentient beings with species-specific needs and underestimate the fact that they require daily care. In the interests of animal welfare and with an eye on your own time, space and financial resources, you should therefore inform yourself thoroughly about the needs of your new animal family members beforehand in order to meet their requirements in every respect. Before you take in a small group of guinea pigs, you should be aware that the animals will incur costs and require daily care. Guinea pigs only feel at home in a spacious, well-equipped enclosure with sufficient freedom of movement. They also need contact with other pigs of their own species. This is because they are not allowed to be kept alone and as cute as these little rodents may look, they are not cuddly animals. Before acquiring them, clarify who will look after the animals on a daily basis, whether you have enough money to cover the costs in the long term and how you can ensure that the animals are well looked after during your vacations, for example.
Every year, hundreds of guinea pigs end up in animal shelters because the owners underestimated the effort involved. Numerous wonderful guinea pigs are now waiting there for a second chance. If you are thinking of adopting guinea pigs as new family members, you should first go to an animal shelter.
By buying from a pet shop, small animal market or online, you are helping to ensure that more animals are bred and then often kept in inappropriate conditions. This also includes unusual breeding forms, which are considered to be torture breeding. This is because the special coloration or structure of the coat of grey, Dalmatian, satin and naked guinea pigs is associated with pathological changes such as deformities and the animals often die young. Guinea pigs with extremely long hair also have a difficult life because they can no longer groom their fur themselves. For animal welfare reasons, you should not acquire such animals.
Origin and behavior
Guinea pigs are only known to us as pets. However, they originally come from South America, where they still live today in their natural habitat in the harsh climate of the high plateaus and bush steppes of the Andes at altitudes of up to 4,000 meters above sea level. Humans first kept them as pets around 2,000 years ago. At that time, however, they mainly used them for their meat or for sacrificial offerings. The rodents then arrived in Europe around 400 years ago via sea voyages. Here, too, they quickly developed into popular pets and were bred over the centuries according to human requirements. Nevertheless, they have retained all their original behaviors. In the wild, they live in small groups of three to ten animals amidst dense vegetation and in burrows and burrows. In general, they like to move around, cover large distances and communicate through a variety of sounds such as squeaking, whistling, cooing or gurgling.
In the event of imminent danger, the animals flee or become terrified. You can also observe this behavior in human care. If guinea pigs are frightened, they fall into a motionless state, known as freezing, and although they can be picked up and stroked, they are internally under great stress.
Enclosure
Even if you would like to go straight to the animal shelter to pick out cute guinea pigs and give them a new home, you should be clear about how you want to keep them. Outside or inside? What should the enclosure look like? What sex should the animals be? Answer these questions before you take in the guinea pigs.
If you decide on young animals, they should be at least eight weeks old. Guinea pigs usually live to be six to eight years old when kept privately. They are diurnal and sociable animals that suffer greatly from loneliness when they are alone. Even with loving care, humans cannot replace their conspecifics. Because guinea pigs quickly become bored even in pairs, it is best to keep a small group of three to six animals together. Different constellations are recommended for the structure of a group, as the gender composition determines whether there will be harmonious coexistence or brutal territorial fights. Specialists can determine the sex of a guinea pig immediately after birth. The time of sexual maturity varies between four and eight weeks for males, females are sexually mature from around three weeks.
A neutered buck should always live with at least two to three females. Pure female groups also work well, but the group benefits from a neutered buck. Males can also get along with each other. However, you should make sure that the animals have either all been neutered before sexual maturity or have lived together from an early age. Bucks that have not lived together with other males of different ages during the socialization phase are often unable to integrate into a group later on. For this reason, an adult "educator" guinea pig should also be part of the group. In addition, you should not add any females to the group if you keep only males or allow individual males to have contact with a female. This creates unrest and can lead to quarrels and fights. In general, males should be castrated whenever they are kept in groups so that they cannot reproduce.
The German Animal Welfare Federation advises against breeding guinea pigs because there are already enough animals waiting for a new home in animal shelters. Veterinarians carry out castrations from the fourth week of life - for female animals usually only if it is medically necessary, for example in the case of cysts, tumors or changes to the uterus. An important note to avoid surprises: Please note that the bucks may still be able to conceive up to six weeks after the operation. So do not put them back in with the females immediately after castration.
Indoor enclosure
Have you decided to keep your guinea pigs indoors or in an apartment and want to create a species-appropriate home for them? Then bear in mind that guinea pigs want to move around a lot, love the view from elevated places and need plenty of space. In a standard small cage, their muscles atrophy and they suffer - this is not species-appropriate. If you want to keep three to four guinea pigs, you should provide at least two square meters of floor space - with a two-meter-long side as a "race track".
We recommend an enclosure without bars, either made of Plexiglas, wood or a combination of the two. Buy or build an enclosure that is open at the top. This will give you easier access to the animals, it will be well ventilated and lit and you can clean it easily. Please note, however, that it can appear threatening to the animals if you suddenly approach them from above. After all, you could be a bird of prey.
To ensure that the animals feel as comfortable as possible, it is best to place the enclosure in an elevated, bright and well-ventilated location that is quiet. This is gentle on the rodents, which are very sensitive to noise. Make sure that you do not expose the guinea pigs to direct sunlight or place them right next to a radiator. This is because they do not like or tolerate heat. They feel really comfortable at a room temperature of 15 to 22 degrees. If there are other animals living in your household, you should cover the enclosure with a grid to be on the safe side.
Sprinkle the animals' home with conventional low-dust small animal bedding . You can place newspaper underneath as an additional protective layer for the enclosure floor. Straw or cat litter, on the other hand, is not suitable because the animals can injure their eyes on the hard, sharp stalks or easily swallow the cat litter. This can lead to a painful and life-threatening intestinal blockage.
If the animals do not yet know each other well or the group is unstable, these should have two entrances and exits so that no lower-ranking animal gets into a dead end if they chase and attack each other. Cork tubes, roots and branches also make great additional shelters. However, be careful not to use any poisonous tree species. When furnishing the enclosure, always bear in mind that guinea pigs are flight animals. They need security coupled with freedom of movement.
The rodents are also very likely to seek out the roofs of the houses to get an overview. Build them gently sloping ramps so that they can easily reach the raised area and do not injure themselves if they have to jump off the roof or fall off. The basic equipment of the enclosure must also include a food bowl for fruit and vegetables as well as a drinking bottle or a raised, stable water bowl. Place racks for hay and other green food in such a way that the guinea pigs cannot get stuck in them.
However, it isnot enough just to offerthe animals food, water, a shelter and bedding, otherwise boredom is inevitable. Provide variety and offer different, constantly changing materials. These can be unsprayed fruit tree branches, hazelnut branches, roots, pieces of wood and bark, rough stones, hammocks made from kitchen towels, pots with home-grown grasses or herbs. The guinea pigs can gnaw on these, sharpen their claws and keep themselves occupied.
They also enjoy tricky tasks such as foraging games. Try it out: For example, hide the food in paper rolls, skewer it on thin branches or hang it up in grid balls that are more difficult to access and watch how the animals solve the tasks.
It is also a welcome change for guinea pigs to explore your home. However, make sure you eliminate any potential dangers when you allow them to run around in your home. Typical sources of danger are, for example
- Electrical or telephone cables that the animals gnaw on
- Long-fiber carpets that the animals can get their claws stuck in
- cleaning agents
- poisonous bouquets, flower arrangements and houseplants
- other pets running free
It can also happen that the animals nibble on or soil furniture, wallpaper and carpets. In general, you should not expect your guinea pigs to be house-trained. On the contrary. They urinate and defecate very frequently and do so everywhere in their environment. However, if you give them enough space, they should prefer to do their business around the edges of the enclosure. Therefore, clean the frequently visited toilet areas as well as the water and food bowls daily. You should clean the entire enclosure once a week. This is because rodents only feel really comfortable in a clean home.
Outdoor enclosure
Due to the sweltering summer heat or snowy winter months, many pet owners are reluctant to keep their guinea pigs in an outdoor enclosure. However, under certain conditions, this form of husbandry is animal-friendly in the local climate - but it is also demanding and costly. Keeping them in a conventional cage or exposed to the sun would not be in the best interests of the animals. It is best to set up a large enclosure in the garden where it can be half in the sun and half in the shade. Plan a base area of at least four square meters for three to four animals and extend it by half a square meter for each additional animal. Make sure the enclosure is burglar-proof, i.e. covered and dug in, so that the guinea pigs cannot disappear unnoticed and are protected from intruders such as dogs, cats, foxes, birds of prey or martens.
Structure your animals' habitat with a covered feeding area, a spacious, weatherproof sleeping house and numerous hiding places and obstacles. If possible, the sleeping house should be divided into several chambers so that each animal has its own space. A hollow roof over the flat roof prevents the enclosure from becoming too hot in summer and heat build-up. Conversely, you need to take additional measures against the cold in winter: Insulated sleeping areas that are kept dry are essential. Give the animals new, lukewarm water regularly so that it cannot freeze and the animals are not dehydrated. Provide plenty of vitamin C from the fall onwards and make sure they have a varied diet of fresh food in winter too. You can also keep guinea pigs on the balcony all year round if you consider all the needs of the small rodents with regard to their enclosure and pay attention to the climatic conditions as described above.
Of course, you can also keep guinea pigs indoors and outdoors throughout the year. However, even if the animals only live outside during the warm season and spend the rest of the time indoors, neither habitat should be temporary.
Combined guinea pig and rabbit keeping?
Rabbits are not much bigger, just as cute, eat greens and would therefore surely enrich the guinea pig group?! This is a misconception. Even if you have a soft spot for rabbits and would like to keep a mixed group, you should not do this. This is because both species have very different behaviors that are difficult to reconcile in a shared enclosure.
For example, rabbits seek physical contact, whereas guinea pigs tend to keep their distance. Rabbits prefer elevated places and are also active at night, while guinea pigs seek shelter in hiding places and are mainly active during the day. If you were to keep both species together, the animals would probably live side by side in a community. However, they cannot replace each other as conspecifics and will not form "friendships". Instead, they may even jump on, bite and, in rare cases, kill each other.
If you absolutely want to keep both species together, this is only possible under the following conditions:
- Keep several of each species.
- Design an enclosure of at least ten square meters that is suitable for both guinea pigs and rabbits.
- It should also have several levels and boundaries so that the animals can get out of each other's way.
- Numerous nooks and crannies must offer the guinea pigs places to hide, while the rabbits need enough open space to be able to make hooks.
- Do not place guinea pigs with rabbits afterwards, as they defend their territory very fiercely.
Handling
If you have set up a spacious, varied and species-appropriate home for your guinea pigs and the animals have a permanent place in your household, please bear in mind that proper handling is crucial for them to feel comfortable in the long term. Noise and commotion are not for them, as guinea pigs are generally quite skittish. Therefore, always approach the enclosure slowly and do not grab an animal straight away. Although they are often said to be cuddly, guinea pigs are not cuddly animals. If you pick them up in your arms, they will usually keep still, but they do not enjoy the contact. They are in a state of paralysis at these moments. If the animals feel threatened, they may initially react by squeaking loudly in fear and chattering their teeth before biting in an extreme emergency.
Make yourself and your children aware that you can have a lot of fun with your guinea pigs if you watch them, but not if you constantly pick them up and stroke them. However, you can quickly gain the animals' trust if you feed them gently and patiently on a regular basis. Keep talking to them so that they quickly get used to your voice. Teach children how to handle guinea pigs correctly and gently so that they learn how to do this.
If one of your guinea pigs has to go to the vet, for example, it is important to place it gently in a suitable transport container. Talk to it and stroke it so that it is not frightened. Then gently reach under the animal's chest from the side with one hand and support the rear end with the other. Never hold the ribcage tightly with both hands, otherwise the animal may suffocate. And be careful: even if guinea pigs only fall from a small height, this is often very dangerous for them because they can quickly break something. In general, the presence of a familiar conspecific, a so-called bonding animal, has a calming effect on guinea pigs. You should therefore also take the animal friend of the guinea pig you are treating with you when you visit the practice to take away some of the excitement.
Nutrition
Three regular meals a day? Guinea pigs don't know anything like that. In the wild, these pure herbivores are constantly busy looking for food throughout the day. To do this, the animals have a large digestive tract, which makes up around a quarter of their entire body mass. If they eat the wrong food or don't get enough nutrients, they quickly suffer from digestive problems. Provide your guinea pigs with a steady supply of food and make it varied to keep them healthy. This will also prevent a deficiency, as the small rodents are unable to produce vitamin C, for example. If necessary, ensure the supply of vitamin C - for sick animals or if there is a temporary lack of fresh food - by adding drops to the drinking water.
Fresh green food is the most natural and healthiest food for guinea pigs. In the form of grasses, herbs and lettuce, it should make up the largest proportion (70 percent) of the daily feed ration alongside constantly available, high-quality hay. The diet should also include vegetables (20 percent), small amounts of fruit (10 percent) and twigs to gnaw on.
The ideal ration for a guinea pig:
- Hay, not too woody, not dusty, good smelling, not musty, freely available
- Fresh feed, at least 200 grams per kilogram of body weight
Suitable food for guinea pigs
Type | Hint |
Ragwort | Well tolerated |
Field bugleweed | Well tolerated |
Creeping thistle | Well tolerated |
Field horsetail | Well tolerated, contains a lot of silicic acid - positive for tooth abrasion |
Field mustard | Well tolerated |
Field bindweed | Well tolerated in small quantities |
Elecampane (elecampane) | Well tolerated, has an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect |
Amaranth | Various cultivated forms, very popular and well tolerated |
Bach clove root | Well tolerated |
Valerian | Well tolerated in small quantities |
Bamboo | Garden bamboo is well suited, as it is also available in winter - but do not confuse it with the houseplant "lucky bamboo", which is poisonous! |
Barbara herb/winter cress | Well tolerated |
Bear's pod | Popular and well tolerated |
Wild garlic | Feed in small quantities, risk of confusion with fall season leaves and lily of the valley (poisonous!) |
Bear's bane | Well tolerated |
Basil | In small quantities |
Mugwort | In small quantities |
Comfrey | Feed in small quantities, not so popular, rather give dried |
Bee friend (also bee pasture, tufted beauty or tufted flower) | Well tolerated |
Purple loosestrife | Well tolerated |
Goat's beard | Well tolerated |
Savory | Can be fed. Do not confuse with the green of the bean plant! |
Borage | Tolerated after acclimatization, small amounts |
Brown burnet | Well tolerated |
Broadleaf plantain | Dried, high calcium content |
Stinging nettle | Well tolerated, can also be fed dried |
Blackberry leaves | Feed without thorns or dried in small quantities |
Watercress | Only small amounts (diuretic) |
Dill | Well tolerated |
Echinacea/echinacea | Well tolerated |
Tarragon | Feed in small quantities |
Stonecrop | Well tolerated |
Knapweed | Well tolerated |
Cinquefoil | Well tolerated |
Daisy | Well tolerated,freshfeed |
Sow thistle | Well tolerated |
Garden milk | Give in small quantities |
Ground elder | Frequent administration possible after acclimatization |
Golliwoog | Well tolerated |
Hazelnut leaves | Well tolerated, including buds and twig |
Hibiscus | Leaves and flowers can be fed |
Shepherd's purse herb | Do not feed to pregnant animals (stimulates labor) |
Hop flowers and leaves | Well tolerated |
Coltsfoot | Only in small quantities |
Currant leaves | Well tolerated |
St. John's wort | Feed fresh, well tolerated, popular |
Camomile | Feed rarely |
Nasturtium | Can be fed in its entirety |
Chervil and garden chervil | Well tolerated |
Clover (white clover) | Can lead to diarrhea in excessive quantities |
Coriander | Well tolerated after acclimatization |
Cornflower | Whole plant can be fed |
Cress | Feed in small quantities, not very popular |
Type | Hint |
Lavender | In small quantities from own garden, high content of essential oils |
Lovage | Do not feed to pregnant animals |
Dandelion | Leaves and flower (can discolor urine) |
Alfalfa | Dried only in small quantities due to calcium content |
Meadowsweet | Well tolerated |
Marjoram | Give in small quantities |
Mallow | Well tolerated fresh, feed dried only rarely |
Daisy | Only from your own garden (unsprayed) in small quantities |
Lemon balm/lemon balm | Well tolerated |
Oregano | Only feed in small quantities |
Parsley | Do not feed to pregnant animals (stimulates labor), diuretic |
Peppermint leaves | Feed in small quantities |
Pimpernel (also small meadow button, burnet) | Fresh, well tolerated |
Marigold | Whole plant including flowers can be fed (only unsprayed) |
Rose petals | Rose leaves and flowers only from your own garden offer without thorns |
Rosemary | Only rarely in small quantities (high content of essential oils and tannic acid) |
Sage | Popular, do not feed to lactating dams, reduces milk production |
Sorrel | Rare and in small quantities, high in oxalic acid |
Yarrow | Not to be confused with spotted hemlock and tansy (poisonous!) |
Sunflower | Leaves and flowers well tolerated, only unsprayed |
Ribwort plantain | Well tolerated, fresh and dried |
Cranesbill | Well tolerated |
Dead nettle | Well tolerated |
Thyme | Give in small quantities, high content of essential oils |
Forget-me-not | Can be fed completely, only unsprayed, |
chickweed | Well tolerated and popular, but not to be confused with incompatible field pimpernel |
Common vetch | Well tolerated |
Woodruff | Feed in small quantities, as it contains a lot of coumarin |
Wood violet | Well tolerated, very popular |
Wood cistus | Well tolerated, unpleasant smelling |
Water mint | Well tolerated |
Rocket | Well tolerated |
Chicory | Well tolerated |
White campion | Well tolerated, popular |
White goosefoot | Well tolerated, very popular |
Meadow hogweed | Well tolerated, very popular, do not confuse with hedge hogweed |
Meadow grass, generally | Well tolerated after acclimatization |
Meadow bedstraw | Well tolerated |
Meadow pea | Well tolerated, very popular |
Meadow sage | Better tolerated than cultivated Sage |
Meadow foamwort | Well tolerated |
Widow flower | Well tolerated |
Wool cicely | Well tolerated, also called hare's ear |
Kidney vetch | Well tolerated, has a disinfectant effect |
Fence vetch | Well tolerated |
Fence bindweed | Well tolerated, very popular |
Cinnamon herb | Well tolerated |
Shaggy vetch | Well tolerated |
Shaggy willowherb | Well tolerated |
Lettuce
In general, the nitrate content in cultivated lettuce is no longer as high as it used to be
Oak leaf | Well tolerated, high water content, low in calories |
Iceberg | Well tolerated, high water content, low in calories |
Endive salad | Well tolerated, diuretic |
Lamb's lettuce | Well tolerated, high nitrate content |
Lettuce | Rather low in nutrients, well tolerated |
Lollo Bionda | Well tolerated, high water content, low in calories |
Lollo Rosso | Well tolerated, high water content, low in calories |
Purslane | Well tolerated, contains omega 3 fatty acids |
Romana | Well tolerated, low in calories, rich in vitamins |
Salanova | Well tolerated, high water content, low in calories |
- Agave, aloe vera, cyclamen, amaryllis, anthurium, arum, azalea
- mountain laurel, henbane, bindweed, bittersweet nightshade, blue rain, buckthorn, beans, boxwood, wood anemone
- Calla, Christmas rose, Christ's thorn
- Ivy, yew, monkshood, aconite, vinegar tree
- Ferns, window leaf, foxglove
- Sweet peas, geraniums, broom, laburnum, bamboo, ground ivy
- Ranunculus, dogwood, honeysuckle, autumn crocus, elder, dog parsley, hyacinth
- holly
- ragwort
- potato herb, cherry laurel
- arborvitae, privet, lilies, lonicera, lupine
- Lily of the valley, mistletoe
- daffodils
- Oleander, daffodil
- primrose
- Vine umbel, giant hogweed, robinia
- Sade tree, wood sorrel, horsetail (field horsetail, marsh horsetail), hemlock, snowberry, snowdrop, celandine, daphne, summer lilac, datura
- Belladonna
- Juniper, wood sorrel, wormwood, winter aconite, spurges, wonder shrub
- Cypress spurge
Type | hint |
Eggplant | Only very ripe fruit, without green, in small quantities |
Mushrooms | Poorly tolerated, only in small quantities |
Chicory | Well tolerated, remove outer leaves (high oxalate content) |
Fennel | Well tolerated, feed together with greens, can discolor urine |
Cucumber | High water content, can cause diarrhea in large quantities |
Carrots/ Carrots | Well tolerated, can be fed together with greens , even if greens are rich in calcium, can discolor urine, relatively high in sugar |
Pumpkin - Bishop's cap - Butternut - Hokkaido - Muscat pumpkin | Do not feed ornamental pumpkins! Tolerated in small quantities, also seeds and peel |
Corn (sweet corn) | Rarely feed cobs (high in starch and calories), leaves well tolerated |
Swiss chard | Feed rarely (high oxalic acid and calcium content) |
Peppers | Only without stalk and seeds, can cause diarrhea in high quantities |
Parsnip | Well tolerated, can be fed together with the green |
Parsley root | Well tolerated, can be fed with greens |
Radicchio | Well tolerated |
Radish | Leaves very popular, bulb itself very spicy, therefore rarely fed |
Radish/turnip - turnip/ Navette - autumn turnip - rutabaga | Well tolerated, also feed leaves |
Beet | Leaves are well tolerated, feed tuber rarely, high oxalic acid content, can discolor urine |
Black salsify | Feed rarely and only peeled, diuretic |
Celery - celeriac - celery root | Celeriac is popular and well tolerated, also leaves, can be fed well washed even with peel Celery can be fed with leaves, diuretic, metabolism stimulating |
Asparagus | Only feed small amounts, very strong diuretic |
Spinach | In small quantities, due to high oxalate content |
Sweet potato (not a potato!) | High vitamin and mineral content, but also very rich in starch, so treat like concentrated feed |
Tomato | Only feed without stalk and when ripe , can cause diarrhea in high quantities , contains sugar |
Jerusalem artichoke | Compatible with the whole plant, but rarely feed the tuber due to its high starch content |
Zucchini | Can be fed together with the peel, well tolerated |
Cabbages
Can have a gassing effect, but are important for the vitamin C supply
Cauliflower | Including leaves, if guinea pigs are used to it |
Broccoli | With stalk, if guinea pigs are used to it |
Chinese cabbage | Usually well tolerated after slow acclimatization |
Kale | Kale is a good source of vitamins and minerals after slow acclimatization |
Kohlrabi | Leaves harmless, slowly feed the tuber |
Pak choi | Feed rarely |
Romanesco | Feed rarely after acclimatization |
Rocket salad | Rarely feed, very high nitrate content |
White cabbage | Feed rarely, very flatulent |
Savoy cabbage | Can be given more frequently after acclimatization |
May be harmful to health:
- Onion plants such as leeks, onions or chives
- Legumes such as lentils, peas or beans
- Potatoes, sugar beet and avocado
Type | hint |
Apples | Without seeds |
Pineapple | Only peeled, very sugary, rarely give! |
Apricots | Feed without pits, very sugary |
Bananas | Rarely in small quantities, as they contain sugar and have a stuffing effect |
Pears | Give rarely, without pits, sugary, can cause diarrhea in large quantities |
Cherimoya | Give only rarely and in small quantities |
Dates | Very sugary, only give in very small quantities |
Dragon fruit/ Pitahaya | Only in small quantities |
Fig | Possible in small quantities |
Pomegranate | Only feed in small quantities |
Guava | Can be fed with peel |
Rosehip | Well tolerated, can also be fed dried |
Persimmon | Can rarely be fed |
Prickly pear | Not very popular, but can be fed |
Cherry | Feed without pit, very sugary |
Kiwi | Very sugary and acidic, give rarely! |
Kumquat | Very acidic, give rarely! |
Mango | Popular, but very sugary |
Passion fruit | Can be given in very small quantities |
Melon (honey and watermelon) | Rarely given, very sugary and diuretic |
Mirabelle plum | Feed without stone, very sugary |
Nectarine | Give without pits, very sugary |
Papaya | Tolerated in small quantities |
Peach | Feed without pit, very high in sugar |
Plum | Feed without pit, but high in sugar, therefore only small amounts |
Physalis | Can be fed in small quantities |
Quince | Can be fed |
Rhubarb | Tolerated in very small quantities, high oxalic acid content |
Sloe | Feed without seeds |
Grapes | Rarely feed individual grapes, without seeds and without skin, tannic acid content |
Citrus fruits - oranges - clementines - grapefruit - limes - mandarins - oranges - lemons | Very rarely given, can irritate mucous membranes , acidify the urine |
Plums | Feed without pits, but high in sugar, therefore only small amounts |
Berries
Blackberries | Well tolerated |
Cranberries | Well tolerated |
Strawberries | Well tolerated, feed with leaves |
Blueberries | Rare, sugary, feed leaves and branches |
Raspberries | Rarely given, sugary |
Currants | Feed rarely, leaves and branches well tolerated |
Cranberries | Can be given in small quantities |
Sea buckthorn | Well tolerated |
Gooseberry | Can rarely be fed |
May be harmful to health:
Elderberries, juniper berries
Type | hint |
Maple | Without buds and blossoms in small quantities |
Apple | Well tolerated |
Birch | Leaves have a strong diuretic effect, very tannic acidic |
Pear | Well tolerated |
Beech (copper beech) | Leaves high in oxalic acid, only give small amounts |
Mountain ash | Branches can be fed, but beware, berries are poisonous |
Oak | Can be given, but without acorns, these can be poisonous |
Alder | Only give small amounts |
Ash | Only the common ash (Fraxinus excelsior) is suitable, the fruits and buds must not be fed |
Fig | Well tolerated |
Rock pear | Well tolerated |
Spruce (Norway spruce) | Only small amounts due to high content of essential oils |
Lilac | Can be offered, but is not very popular |
Forsythia | Well tolerated |
Ginkgo | Well tolerated |
Hornbeam | Only small amounts, very tannic acidic |
Hazelnut | Well tolerated |
Blueberry bush | Well tolerated |
Raspberry bush | Well tolerated |
Currant bush | Well tolerated |
Chestnut | Tolerated in small quantities, but unpopular |
Pine | Only small quantities due to high content of essential oils |
Cherry tree | Branches can be offered, do not contain prussic acid |
Larch | Well tolerated |
Privet | Can be fed, unpopular |
Linden | Only give small amounts, diuretic |
Mirabelle tree | Branches can be offered, do not contain prussic acid |
Poplar | Only give small quantities |
Peach tree | Branches can be offered, do not contain hydrocyanic acid |
Plum tree | Branches can be offered, do not contain hydrocyanic acid |
Plane tree | Well tolerated |
Quince | Only give small amounts |
Blackthorn | Give without thorns |
Gooseberry | Well tolerated |
Fir (silver fir) | Only small quantities due to high content of essential oils, Christmas trees are usually sprayed, therefore do not feed |
Elm | Leaves and branches are well tolerated, do not feed fruit |
Walnut tree | Unpopular, but tolerated in small quantities |
Willow | Only give small amounts, very tannic acidic |
Vine and Wild vine | Well tolerated |
Hawthorn | Can be given, Beware of thorns! |
Plum tree | Branches can be offered, do not contain prussic acid |
- Boxwood
- yew
- Angel's trumpet
- Gorse
- Golden and blue rain
- Elder tree
- Laurel
- magnolia
- Rhododendron
- Snowball
- thuja
- Miracle tree
- Cypress
Health
If you feed your guinea pigs a varied and balanced diet and give them plenty of space to move around together, the most important requirements for their health have already been met. However, in order to notice and recognize early signs of illness, you should check the animals' health regularly.

Checkliste How to recognize a healthy guinea pig:
- It has a shiny, evenly dense coat. Round or oval patches on the skin would be typical of fungal infestation, while mite infestation would result in scaly patches of skin.
- It is lively and curious.
- The animal's eyes are clear and shiny, the edges of the eyes are not sticky.
- The nostrils are dry and the ears are clean. Barky deposits would be a sign of ear mange.
- The anal area is clean and dry. Soiling would indicate diarrhea.
- The claws are short and the legs, especially the joints, show no thickening. If kept with lots of natural materials, stones or branches, the claws will wear off by themselves. A guinea pig usually has four claws on the front and three on the back.
- The undersides of the pads are clean and show no signs of inflammation. This occurs if they are kept on the wrong surface or if the bedding is damp or unclean.
- The animals have an appetite, they eat well and do not just chew on the leaves without swallowing.
- The animal's weight is not subject to major fluctuations. Regular checks are important. Check your guinea pigs' weight weekly to detect fluctuations at an early stage.
- At the first sign of illness, you should consult a vet immediately, as guinea pigs can unfortunately be in mortal danger. However, if possible, do not separate a sick animal from the other members of its species. This would cause additional stress. In the event of an infectious disease, your vet will inform you of the correct procedure.
The guinea pig at a glance
Guinea pigs ...
- live to be six to eight years old on average.
- are very sociable and should be kept in groups of three or smaller.
- need a varied diet.
- are very active and need plenty of space.
- can be kept in a suitable enclosure in the garden all year round.
- are not "cuddly and cuddly animals" and should only be left to children if they have demonstrated the necessary care when handling animals.
By adopting an animal from the animal shelter, you are making an active contribution to animal welfare.
- Ruth Morgenegg: Artgerechte Haltung – ein Grundrecht auch für Meerschweinchen, Verlag Ernst Kaufmann GmbH, 2007, ISBN 978-3952266106
- Anja Ewringmann, Barbara Glöckner: Leitsymptome bei Meerschweinchen, Chinchilla und Degu – Diagnostischer Leitfaden und Therapie, Enke Verlag Stuttgart, 2012, ISBN 978-3-8304-1091-1
- Barbara Schneider, Dorothea Döring: Verhaltensberatung bei kleinen Heimtieren: Haltung, Normalverhalten und Behandlung von Verhaltensproblemen, Verlag Schattauer, 2017, ISBN 978-3-7945-3112-7
- Deutscher Tierschutzbund: Kleine Heimtiere – Artgerechte Tierhaltung im Tierheim und Zuhause, 2. Auflage 2014, ISBN 978-3-924237-15-8
Animal welfare with heart and mind
Please help us to help the animals! Professional animal welfare, as we do it, needs a financial basis as well as idealistic commitment. We and our associations depend on your support for our work for the welfare of animals. If you would like to support animal welfare, we offer you many opportunities:
- Become a supporting member of the German Animal Welfare Association and your local animal welfare organization, because only an association with strong membership will be heard in politics.
- Support animal welfare projects with an animal sponsorship in one of our aid facilities. The local animal welfare associations also offer many opportunities.
- By donating to our foundation and making testamentary dispositions, you can help tax-free after your death.
Your donation helps exactly where you want it to - in a project, an animal emergency or one of the more than 700 animal welfare organizations affiliated with us.
- Help us to raise awareness. Support our campaigns, for example. We will be happy to inform you about them.
- You can find the addresses of our member associations on our website - many are happy to receive helping hands as well as donations in kind and money. It is best to ask what help the associations currently need. We will also be happy to put you in touch with an animal welfare association in your area.
- Gain fellow campaigners for animal welfare. We will be happy to send you information and application forms.